| Whether you are a parks and recreation type, work for
a local school system, or just want your own regulation backyard baseball
field, knowing a few basics is necessary before you can build your
own field. The following instructions are designed to help set up
a field from a relatively level, open area of ground. In addition
to the field set-up requirements, keep in mind that to have a quality
turf-grass playing surface, sports fields must have the following:
1) adequate water drainage, 2) properly designed, installed and maintained
irrigation systems; 3) a sound maintenance program to address turf
and clay conditions; and 4) the necessary field equipment (bases,
pitching rubber) and surrounding structures such as fences.
Baseball and softball are the only major sports that are played
on fields that have both turf and exposed soil for a playing surface.
Since about 66% of the game is played on the infield, "skinned"
areas should receive as much attention as the turf areas. The concept
of clay management is similar to turf management in that it is difficult
to write a maintenance program for all infield skinned areas due
to diversity among infield soils. One thing that does not change
though, is the basic layout.

Figure 1. Baseball
Infield Dimensions
The following list is a basic 13-step program for
laying out a baseball field (Figure 1). If you can follow these
basic 13 steps, you can build your own field of dreams. In addition
to the steps, a few tips and suggestions were also included. A
few basic tools such as shovels, rakes, a couple of measuring
tapes, a small sledge hammer, a tamp or roller as well as some
supplies such as stakes, string, paint (inverted aerosol spray
cans), pitching rubber, bases, and home plate are needed to complete
this project. Power tools and some extra hands will make the project
go much faster.
Basic Baseball Field Layout
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Start with a flat, open area. If some elevation
is on-site, it should be in the infield area. Ideally, the open
area has a good, dense stand of turf or with a little help one
can be rejuvenated. If that is not the case, plan a turf management
program to coincide with the construction of your ball field.
It is helpful to mark out the components of an infield with
paint as outlined below to visualize the field before you actually
start removing turf.
-
Placement of home plate determines layout of
the field. Be sure to plan for some type of backstop to contain
stray pitches and to protect fans from tipped balls. If it is
truly a backyard field and fans behind the batters box are not
likely, planting shrubs about 60 feet (minimum required for
high school and college fields) behind home plate may prevent
errant balls from rolling too far away from the field.
-
Using the apex of home plate (back corner),
cut out turf in a 13-foot radius.
-
The next step is to locate second base. Measure
from the back tip of home plate to a distance of 127 feet and
3 3/8 inches (see Table 2 for distance between bases for other
leagues). Mark with a wooden stake. When installing base pads,
this will be the center of second base.
-
With the tape measure still in place, it is
easiest to go ahead and mark the location of the pitching rubber
at this time. The placement can be marked by measuring from
the back tip of home plate along a string stretched to second
base. The pitching rubber should be at 60 feet 6 inches.
-
The easiest way to find first and third base
is to use two tape measures. Stretch one tape from second base
stake toward the first base line and the second tape from the
back tip of home plate toward first base area. The point where
the two tapes cross at the 90-foot mark is the back corner of
the bases. Repeat this step to find third base. A baseball diamond
is actually a 90-foot square.
-
First and third base fit within the square,
but second base is measured to the center of the bag. Improperly
placed second base is one of the most common mistakes made when
setting up a baseball field.
-
To make a "slide area" around the
bases, cut out turf around bases by measuring a 13-foot radius
within the 90-foot square. You can leave the base paths grassed
if you like, or you can turn them into skinned base paths.
-
Next, turn your attention to the pitcher's mound.
The diameter of a pitcher's mound clay is 18 feet, with 10 feet
from the front of the rubber, toward home plate and 8 feet from
the back of the rubber.
-
The top of the mound consists of a plateau that
is 5 feet wide.
-
A regulation pitcher's mound is 10 ½
inches high (compared to surface level of home plate). Miscalculation
of the pitcher's mound height is probably the second most common
error in setting up a baseball field. A transit or field level
is best for setting the height, but in a pinch, other methods
my also work. I once saw a guy peering through a cheap scope
clamped to a carpenter's level on a makeshift tripod. Another
option is to use your stakes with taut string and a ruler. A
standard pitcher's rubber is 24 inches by 6 inches.
-
Building a pitcher's mound is as much an art
as it is a science. Build the mound from ground up, 1 inch at
a time keeping in mind the mound's slope (see next step). As
you add each layer, tamp or roll the soil.
-
Beginning 12 inches in front of the pitcher's
rubber and measuring toward home plate, for every one foot of
distance the slope will fall one inch (until the slope meets
ground level).
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Figure
2. Batting Area Detail |
Figure
3. Pitching Mound Detail |
The mix used to build the pitcher's landing area
(and often the batter's box and catcher's box) should have a significant
concentration of clay to provide the necessary stability to resist
degradation from increased traffic. A good material will be about
40% sand, 20% silt, and 40% clay. If necessary, you can mix individual
components together. Just be sure that individual components are
evenly distributed throughout the material.
A quality infield material will have a lower concentration
of clay than the pitcher's mound. The infield skin should be moist
and firm, not hard and baked dry. To achieve firmness, an infield
mix should not be too sandy. An infield mix with greater than
75% sand causes unstable footing for ballplayers and increases
infield skin maintenance problems. A sandy infield will create
low spots more quickly and is more likely to create lips at the
infield skin/turf interface. Ideally, the infield mix should be
between 50% and 75% sand and 25% to 50% clay and silt. A combination
that has been successfully used is a 60% sand, 20% silt, 20% clay
base mix (sandy clay loam to sandy loam). The silt and clay give
the mix firmness. If the mix contains too much silt and clay,
compaction and hardness become a problem.
Well, now you have your field of dreams. If you
have some big hitters, you may want to erect your outfield fence.
This distance varies with the level of play. Confer with League
Officials for data listed and recommended placement of outfield
fences. Refer to Table 2 for a summary of base, pitching rubber,
and outfield wall distances.
Tables
Table 1. Suggested Tool and Supplies for
Building a Baseball Field
Tool and Supply
List |
Number |
| Shovel |
2 |
| Rake |
2 |
| 200 Foot Measuring Tape |
2 |
| Small Sledge Hammer |
1 |
| Tamp |
1 |
| Roller |
1 (Optional) |
| Stakes |
5 |
| Aerosol Paint |
1 |
| Pitching Rubber |
1 |
| Bases |
3 |
| Home Plate |
1 |
| Chalk Box and Chalk |
1 |
To buy any of the above items, visit our online
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Table 2. Distance between Bases, from Pitching
Rubber to Home Plate, and from Outfield Wall to Home Plate for
Various Levels of Play.
| Field Use |
Base to Base |
Pitching Rubber to Home Plate |
First to Third or Home to Second |
Home to Outfield Wall |
| Baseball |
90' |
60' 6" |
127' 3 3/8" |
Varies |
| Little League |
60' |
46' |
84' 10 ¼" |
180' radius |
| Pony League |
75' |
54' |
106' ¾" |
250' radius |
| Babe Ruth League |
90' |
60' 6" |
127' 3 3/8" |
300' radius |
| Fast Pitch Softball |
60' |
35-40' |
84' 10 1/4" |
150-225', varies |
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